The Jeepney
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| Janette the jeepney waits for a full load of passengers in Sabang. Once the driver is happy with the number of people on board, they will set off. |
Behold, the wonder of the bedazzled, rattling, swerving, blinged up, squashed in, sputtering and jolting mode of transport known as the jeepney. According to
the internets, the jeepney is
'the most popular means of public transportation in the Philippines. They are known for their crowded seating and kitsch decorations, which have become a ubiquitous symbol of Philippine culture and art'. I can attest to all these things being true. I couldn't keep my eyes off them. Each jeepney is unique (cliche but oh so true!) and they are even named. I took a
keen obsessive interest in noting down all the different names and I'll even share my list at the end of this post. Our friends had arrived in Manila a couple of days before us, and already had some experience in the way of the jeepney.
How to catch it:
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| First passengers on board this jeepney. |
Stand on a street. Any part of any street will do. Wait a couple of minutes, maybe 15 at most, and a jeepney will hurtle along. Stick your arm (or any other limb) out and witness the incredible stopping power. You'll think it's continuing past you until the last moment when you realise it's actually stationary - just. Clamber in via the back door, which may or may not have an actual door. There may be room on either of the two long bench seats that run along the sides, or you may have to nestle in beside a granny or a local cock fighting master (with rooster in tow) or between giggling children who will spend the entire trip staring at you. Whatever you do, don't look out of the window, particularly if you're facing the side where the narrow (is it really two lanes?) road drops away and plummets into the sea. And don't look out of the other side where you see how close the oncoming jeepneys and occasional vans fly past. And don't look out of the front window, where you see tricycles, motorbikes, pedestrians, puppies and chickens jump out of the way at the last moment, or stop in front of you. And, don't look out of the back door, because there may not be an actual back door and there's likely to be quite a few people hanging off the rear and/or jumping on/off. Which brings me to the next point:
How to make it stop: (and get off unscathed)
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| Trip in progress. It's blurry for a reason, folks. |
If you look decidedly un-Philippino and get this right first go, you are likely to be met with a round of cheering and/or applause. In the same way that you can get on a jeepney by flagging it down anywhere, you can get off anywhere you like. Anywhere! Yes, even the inside lane of a blind hairpin corner. Which happened to be our stop. All you need to do is look out of the window at the right moment, recognise your landmark, and hit the roof of the jeepney with your hand: *bang-bang-bang-bang-bang-bang*. You can also call out 'stop!' at the same time, or another method is to get a coin between your fingers and tap it on the railing. Clamber over everyone and everything you clambered across to get in, and out you go.
How much will it cost:
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| El Shaddai is super shiny and very bling. |
All the jeepneys we caught were 20 pesos per person per journey. It didn't matter if you were travelling the full distance between the two towns, or partway (we stayed approximately 2/3 of the way between Puerto Galera and Sabang - at the PG end). Send the 20 pesos up to the driver before you get out, or sometimes there is a guy at the back who collects the cash. 20 pesos is about 50 cents (AUD).
The Tricycle
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| A tricycle, more or less. This one was usually parked at the corner where we waited for a ride. |
In between waiting for a jeepney, about a zillion tricycles will whizz past, each slowing down slightly to call out 'Tricycle maaaam? Tricycle sirrrrr?' to which you must shake your head, or even explain that you're waiting for the jeepney, as often they will stop completely in front of you in case you will accept the ride.
How to catch it:
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| On board the tricycle; you'll note that they ride very low to the ground. |
In the case that you do want a tricycle, just do the same thing you do for a jeepney, perhaps less exaggerated as they are likely to stop anyway if they don't already have passengers. A tricycle is just that: a modified motorbike with a side-car welded to it, and a cover over the driver/passenger. You can fit anywhere between one and five? six? people on a tricycle. We usually travelled with two: one passenger behind the driver, and one in the side-car. One trip I think there was someone sitting on the roof above my head. It's more fun to look out of the side of a tricycle, as you're generally going a little slower than a jeepney. The breeze is lovely as you buzz along the bumpy road. Sometimes the driver will turn off the motor going down a hill. One tricycle I caught had a sticker saying 'May God Bless Our Trip' stuck to the inside of the side-car.
Hot tip:
If you are tall, say - above 160 cm (oh look! That includes me, I'm 164 cm!) - then you'll probably bump your head on the roof of the side-car. Best to sit side-saddle behind the driver and hold on for dear life.
How to make it stop:
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| A peaceful stretch of road and afternoon sunshine. |
Tell the driver roughly where you are going first, then tap them on the shoulder or on the leg (if you're in the side-car) when you've reached your destination. It may not come completely to a stop before you disembark.
How much will it cost:
This seemed to depend on a wide range of variables, including: whether it was day or night (day = cheaper, night = more expensive), whether it was a private or registered tricycle, whether or not the driver was on their way somewhere else, whether they had arranged for their brother or cousin or boss to turn around and pick you up, etc. Usually between 50 and 100 pesos (75 cents / $2.50 AUD).
The Wooden Boats
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| A wooden boat moored at Moulle Pier, Puerto Galera. This was a taxi-style boat. There were often a group of young boys climbing along the bamboo arms and asking passengers for snacks, pesos or lollies, and if nothing was forthcoming, jumping off into the water before clambering back on to try their luck again. |
These were a lovely, dreamy and floaty (funny, that!) way to get about. We took a boat to get to the villa, a pleasant and mostly flat hour journey across Batangas Bay, and back again when it was time to leave. We were also picked up from our (!) beach by a smaller wooden boat to go to White Beach for an afternoon trip. Coming home was a little more hair-raising, given that there was only a small light (a flashlight being held up by one of the crew) and it was becoming dark rather quickly. We kept our eyes peeled for landmarks and got a fright when a black boat came out of nowhere and across our path - thinking for a moment they may have been pirates (ha!). The boats have distinctive bamboo arms that stretch out each side, curving gracefully onto the water rather like wings.
How to catch one:
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| The moment of revelation where we started to make a line for our accommodation - Chansey points out the beach with the sun lounges all lined up. |
Our boat trips were pre-arranged so we just climbed down the 137 stairs from the villa to the beach and jumped aboard.
How to get off:
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| Peter ascends the ladder after making the obstacle course from our boat, at the rear, to the wharf. And here comes some of our luggage too. |
On our final boat ride back across from the villa to Batangas City, getting off involved climbing from our boat across a narrow plank to another boat that it had tied up to, then through this boat - which had its flooring pulled up for maintenance, so mind those big gaps and don't fall through! - down a gangplank, through the water and up a slippery bamboo ladder onto the wharf. Do this whilst carrying one or two items of luggage, then watch the crew lug the rest of the luggage across and hope it doesn't fall into the harbour.
And now, for the jeepney names
El Shaddai // Renie // Cassandra // Clarissa // Jeniffer // Leo the King // Nhemiel // Johnny Bhegood // Glory be to God // Birchen // Janette // Margarita // Superstar // Franz @ Irish // Monsoom // Blossom // Aaron // Nicole // Annaliza // Kenz // Mindeo // Christian // Eviota // Lucky Bunso // Jonabel // Super Angel // In God We Trust // Idol // 3Kings // Keemriel // Eunice // Jessica May // Jester // Caris // Angelica // Baby Ness // Good for God // Queto // Jenzelle // Jayme // Phomela // Sonny // Aldwyn // My Sweet Lord // My Pray // Lucky Guy // Mared // Bernadeta // Tito-Lina // Odette // Lover Lovely // John & Jed // Iverson // Berania // Charmaine // Justine // Darsyll // Socialite // God // St Joseph // Forever // The Holy Land // Allyssa // Ishikawa // God Bless Us // Lady // Lourdes // Dreams Come True // Country Jealous Guy // Five Sisters // Gina Maree // Marina // Cyprus // Jeanny // Alexander // Vienna // Jesus // Mariel // John Paolo // St Vincent // Adrian Lennon // Nikka // Jiggy // Andy // Marvin // Ivan Jerome // Celebrity // Sailor // St Bartolomue // Jesus Christ My Lord // Pamela Anne // Joey // Prinze // Veronica // God is the Great // Mary's Blood // Joyce // Richard Marie // John Paul Raymond // Barbie // Sundance // Mary Queen // Kaylyn // New Jerusalem // Pete Andre // Venus Glory // Jesus Lord // Scorpio // Sydney // Nazareno
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